Gardening Help Hub

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Stand facing out from your back door – the direction you face is your garden’s aspect.

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You can also use a compass app or observe where the sun rises and sets during the day to confirm your garden’s aspect.

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Use a compass (for real, or on your phone) or observe where sunlight falls during the day.

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Morning sun usually comes from the east, afternoon sun from the west, and the strongest sun comes from the south.

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Garden aspect refers to the direction your garden faces and how much sun it receives.

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Aspect affects temperature, light levels and which plants will grow best in your space.

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Count how many hours of direct sunlight your garden receives.

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Six or more hours is considered full sun; fewer hours means part shade or shade.

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Observe your garden at different times of day.

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Buildings, fences and trees can block light, so it’s worth checking morning, midday and afternoon.

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Yes – many plants thrive in shade.

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Shade-loving plants can create calm, lush planting with interesting foliage and seasonal flowers. Try our Shady Corner Collection – it only uses plants that thrive in shade.

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Not always.

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Buildings, fences and trees can block sunlight even in south-facing gardens.

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They can block or filter light at different times of day.

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This is why observing your actual garden conditions is more useful than relying on aspect alone.

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Dig a small hole and feel the soil when it’s damp.

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Sticky soil suggests clay, gritty soil suggests sand, and crumbly soil is usually loam.

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Clay, sandy, loamy, chalky and silty.

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Most gardens are a mix, but one type is usually dominant. Loam is seen as the best soil, but it’s quite rare your garden will have this perfect blend everywhere. And importantly, you can work with all soil conditions.

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Clay soil holds water and nutrients but drains slowly.

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It suits many strong plants and improves over time with added organic matter.

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Sandy soil drains quickly and warms up fast.

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It’s easy to work but needs regular watering and feeding.

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Loam is a balanced, crumbly soil that drains well but holds moisture.

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It’s ideal for most plants, though it still benefits from compost.

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Squeeze damp soil in your hand and see how it behaves.

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Sticky and smooth suggests clay; loose and gritty suggests sand. In between this is closer to loam.

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Add organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure.

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This improves structure, drainage and nutrients for all soil types. More guidance on how to prepare a flower bed for planting can be found on this useful blog post.

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Yes.

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Raised beds, containers and soil improvement all make gardening possible.

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Soil pH describes how acidic or alkaline your soil is.

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Soil pH affects how easily plants can take up nutrients. Some plants prefer acidic soil, others prefer neutral or alkaline conditions, but many plants are adaptable and grow happily in a wide range of soils.

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You can test your soil using a simple soil pH test kit.

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Soil test kits are widely available and easy to use. You can also get more detailed results through lab testing, but for most home gardens a basic kit gives enough information to guide plant choice.

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Yes — many plants grow well in alkaline soil.

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Alkaline soils suit plants such as lavender, roses, geraniums, salvias and many Mediterranean-style plants. Choosing plants that naturally prefer alkaline conditions is usually easier than trying to change your soil.

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Yes — neutral soil is suitable for most plants.

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Neutral soil is very versatile and supports a wide range of plants, including perennials, shrubs, grasses, vegetables and many flowering plants. This is why neutral soil is often described as ideal, but it’s not essential for gardening success.

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Yes — some plants prefer acidic soil.

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Acid-loving plants include hydrangeas, camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and heathers. These plants tend to struggle in alkaline soil, so matching them to naturally acidic conditions gives the best results.

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Usually, it’s easier to choose plants that suit your soil than to change the soil itself.

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Changing soil pH across a whole garden is difficult and often temporary. Most gardeners have more success choosing plants that naturally grow well in their existing soil. In containers or raised beds, adjusting soil pH is more manageable (with specific composts, for example), but for borders and larger areas, working with what you have is usually the simplest and most reliable approach.

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A hardy plant can survive winter outdoors in the UK.

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Hardy plants cope with frost, while tender plants may need protection

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Half-hardy plants may need winter protection.

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They’re often fine outdoors in summer but vulnerable to frost.

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Hardy plants are more reliable and easier to care for.

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Hardy plants are able to survive winter outdoors in the UK without protection, which makes them a great choice for beginners. In the UK, plants with a hardiness rating of H4 or higher are generally very reliable in most gardens. Starting with hardy plants reduces losses, builds confidence, and allows you to focus on learning your garden rather than protecting plants from frost.

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It shows how much cold a plant can tolerate.

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In the UK, hardiness ratings run from lower numbers (more tender) to higher numbers (more cold-tolerant). Plants rated H4 and above usually cope well with typical UK winters, while lower-rated plants may need protection or be better suited to pots.

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Annuals live for one year, perennials return each year, and shrubs are woody plants.

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Most gardens use a mix of all three for balance.

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Evergreen plants keep their leaves all year.

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They provide structure and interest even in winter. Our Evergreen Gem Plant Collection is a great choice if you want all-year interest in your outdoor space.

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They show how much room a plant needs when fully grown.

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Correct spacing helps airflow and keeps plants healthy.

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Height is how tall a plant grows; spread is how wide.

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These measurements refer to mature size, not initial planting size.

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A trowel, secateurs, watering can or hose, and gloves.

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These basics cover most beginner gardening tasks. Consider a garden spade, fork and rake as your next tools on the list. Take a look at this useful blog post for more detail. 

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Less than many people expect.

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Short, regular sessions are usually enough.

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Less than many people expect.

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Short, regular sessions are usually enough. It’s when you leave things for too long that it can quickly become overwhelming!

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Yes, but spring and autumn are easiest.

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You can still plan, plant and prepare year-round. But spring is when many plants start coming to life, and in autumn the soil is still warm.

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Observe your space before buying plants.

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Understanding light, soil and space saves time and money.

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No — it’s usually best to live with your garden for a while first.

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Spending time observing your garden through a season helps you understand what’s already working. Plants can look very different at different times of year, and waiting often prevents unnecessary removals.

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Yes, if they’re healthy and you enjoy them.

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Keeping plants you like gives your garden structure while you build confidence. You can always make changes gradually rather than all at once.

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Remove plants that are unhealthy, overgrown or causing problems.

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Plants that are old, woody, diseased or dominating the space can make gardens feel crowded. Removing a few problem plants often makes a bigger difference than replacing everything.

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A dominant plant takes up too much space or overwhelms others.

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Some plants spread aggressively or grow larger than expected. Reducing or removing them can improve balance and give other plants room to thrive.

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Yes — enjoyment matters.

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Gardens don’t need to follow strict rules. If a plant makes you happy and isn’t causing issues, it deserves a place, even if it’s not ‘perfect’ on paper.

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Yes — small changes can make a big difference.

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Editing a garden gradually by removing a few problem plants and adding new ones over time is often more successful and less overwhelming than a full clear-out.

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Yellow leaves are usually caused by overwatering, underwatering or lack of nutrients.

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Check soil moisture first. If it’s soggy, reduce watering; if dry, water deeply. Feeding may help if watering is correct.

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Wilting can be caused by overwatering or root damage.

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Roots need air as well as water. Constantly wet soil can stop plants taking up moisture.

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They’re usually not getting enough light.

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Plants stretch towards light. Moving them to a brighter spot often improves growth.

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Too much shade or too much nitrogen-rich feed can reduce flowering.

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Many flowering plants need sun and balanced feeding to bloom.

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This is often caused by dry soil or wind exposure.

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Pots dry out quickly and windy spots increase moisture loss.

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Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves.

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It’s common in warm, dry conditions with poor air circulation. While it can look alarming, it rarely kills plants and is often more of a cosmetic issue than a serious problem.

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Improve airflow and avoid stressing plants.

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Spacing plants properly, watering at the base, and removing badly affected leaves can help reduce powdery mildew. Keeping plants healthy makes them more resilient.

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Signs include yellow leaves, limp growth and constantly wet soil.

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Most plants prefer soil to dry slightly between watering.

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Dry soil, drooping leaves and crispy edges suggest underwatering.

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Water slowly so moisture reaches the roots. Take a look at this helpful blog post on watering for more information. 

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Pots lose moisture faster than garden soil.

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Sun, wind and small containers speed up drying. More regular watering is therefore needed.

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Slugs, snails, insects or birds are common causes.

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Look for holes, slime trails or chewed leaves to identify the culprit.

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Use barriers, remove hiding places and protect young plants.

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Copper tape, grit and evening checks can help reduce damage. Take a look at this helpful blog post for more advice on how to deal with these little critters.

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Lack of sun, incorrect pruning or nutrient imbalance are common causes.

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Check light levels and avoid pruning at the wrong time of year.

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It may need deadheading or feeding.

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Removing spent flowers encourages many plants to bloom again.

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Heat, lack of water or nutrient depletion are common reasons.

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Regular watering and occasional feeding help maintain growth.

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Spring is about planting, tidying and encouraging new growth.

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Spring is a good time to plant most perennials, shrubs and climbers, tidy borders, remove winter debris and start feeding plants as growth begins. More detail on what to do can be found on this blog post, and this useful one too. 

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Yes – many plants flower in spring.

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Spring flowers include bulbs (take a look at this blog post for more inspiration) as well as perennials like Brunnera, Epimedium, Phlox and Primroses, and shrubs such as Lilac and Peonies.

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Some plants should still be left uncut.

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Many perennials and grasses are best left until growth is well underway, as old growth protects new shoots from late frosts.

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Focus on watering, deadheading and enjoying your garden.

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Regular watering, deadheading and light feeding help keep plants flowering and healthy. For early summer specifically, more helpful detail can be found on this blog post. For midsummer, this post has lots of detail. And for late summer, here’s another to look through.

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Many perennials and annuals flower through summer.

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Summer colour often comes from roses, salvias, echinacea and annual bedding plants.

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Avoid overwatering and watering in the heat of the day.

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Watering early morning or evening reduces water loss and stress on plants.

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Autumn is ideal for planting and preparing for winter.

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Cooler temperatures and moist soil help plants establish strong roots. It’s why we call it ‘Planting Season’ – this post explains why in more detail. 

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Alongside planting, there’s plenty to be getting on with.

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It’s also a great time to plant bulbs for the following Spring, there’s pruning to be done and other tidying jobs to prepare your garden for winter. More detail can be found on this useful blog post.

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Many plants establish well in autumn, and some look their best at this time of year.

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Autumn is perfect for planting perennials and late-flowering plants such as salvias, sedum and rudbeckia. Take a look at this blog post for more ideas & inspiration. 

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Avoid cutting everything back straight away.

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Leaving seed-heads and stems provides winter interest and protection for plants and wildlife.

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Winter is a time for planning and light maintenance.

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Tasks include protecting plants, planning changes and planting bare-root plants when conditions allow. This useful blog post has more detail on what to focus on.

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Bare-root plants are supplied without soil around their roots.

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They are usually planted in winter and include roses, fruit trees, hedging and deciduous trees. They’re often more cost effective than buying plants established in pots and containers.

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Yes — but activity is lighter.

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Winter is ideal for planning, learning and preparing for the seasons ahead.

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Dig a hole, plant at the same depth, and water well.

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Remove the plant from its pot carefully, tease out roots if tightly packed, dig a wide hole, firm in and water thoroughly. This useful explainer blog post has a simple, step-by-step side.

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Yes, if roots are tightly packed.

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Loosening roots helps them grow into surrounding soil.

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Water deeply straight after planting, for at least ten seconds per plant.

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Good watering settles soil and removes air pockets.

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Yes — many seeds are easy to grow.

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Starting with easy seeds builds confidence.

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Seeds are grown from scratch, plugs are young plants, and plants are more mature.

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Plugs and plants are easier for beginners.

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Seeds may need warmth, light or moisture.

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Cold conditions or drying out are common causes.

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It means gradually acclimatising plants to outdoor conditions.

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Young plants need time to adjust before planting out.

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Pruning means cutting back parts of a plant to keep it healthy and in shape.

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Pruning can improve flowering, control size and remove dead or damaged growth. Not all plants need regular pruning, and many do better with minimal interference. This useful blog post has all the basics you need to know for pruning.

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No — some plants need very little pruning.

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Many plants are happy with occasional tidying. Over-pruning is more likely to cause problems than under-pruning.

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It depends on when the shrub flowers.

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Spring-flowering shrubs are pruned after flowering, while summer-flowering shrubs are pruned in late winter or early spring.

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Many plants are best left uncut until spring.

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Leaving old growth over winter protects plants from frost and provides wildlife shelter.

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Deadheading means removing spent flowers from plants.

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Removing faded flowers encourages many plants to produce more blooms and keeps plants tidy.

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Deadheading often leads to more flowers.

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Many perennials and roses will produce a second or even third flush of flowers if spent blooms are removed regularly.

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Remove faded flowers just above a healthy leaf or bud.

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Use secateurs or pinch flowers by hand where possible. Regular deadheading works best.

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Dividing means splitting a plant into smaller sections.

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Many perennials grow into clumps over time. Dividing keeps them healthy and gives you more plants.

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Spring or autumn is usually best.

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Dividing during cooler, wetter periods reduces stress and helps plants re-establish.

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Lift the plant and split the rootball into sections.

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Dig up the plant with as much rootball as possible. Use a spade or garden saw to split it, ensuring each section has roots and growth.

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No — when done correctly, it usually helps them.

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Dividing can rejuvenate tired plants and encourage stronger growth.

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Yes, but timing matters.

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Moving plants in spring or autumn gives them the best chance to settle again.

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Some plants have tall or soft growth that can flop over.

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Wind, rain and heavy flowers can cause collapse. Support helps reduce damage.

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Stake early, before plants fall over.

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Early support allows stems to grow naturally through it.

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Stakes, hoops, twiggy supports or frames.

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Choose supports that suit the plant’s size and habit.

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Some do, but not all plants need regular feeding.

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Plants in pots and heavy-flowering plants benefit most.

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Gentle, natural feeds work well for most gardens.

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Organic and natural feeds release nutrients more slowly and support soil health. Seaweed feed, compost, well-rotted manure and organic liquid feeds are all good options. They’re less likely to cause damage from overfeeding and help build healthier soil over time.

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Yes — it’s a very useful all-round feed.

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Seaweed fertiliser supports healthy root growth and helps plants cope with stress such as drought or cold. It doesn’t force fast growth, which makes it suitable for regular use on most plants, including perennials, shrubs and vegetables.

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Yes — more is not always better.

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Overfeeding can cause lots of soft growth, fewer flowers and weaker plants. Feeding little and often, and following product guidance, usually gives better results than heavy feeding.

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Not necessarily for most gardens.

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Many plants grow perfectly well with a general-purpose organic feed. Some plants, such as vegetables or flowering plants in pots, may benefit from more regular feeding, but you don’t need a cupboard full of products.

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Mulch helps retain moisture and improve soil.

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Mulching suppresses weeds and improves soil structure, and it creates a smarter finish to the flower bed.

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Organic materials that protect the soil and improve it over time.

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Common mulching materials include compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mould (see our blog post here on how to make it), bark chips, wood chippings and straw. These help retain moisture, suppress weeds and gradually improve soil structure as they break down. The best mulch is often whatever organic material is easily available to you.

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Usually in spring or autumn.

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Mulching in spring helps lock in moisture and suppress weeds, while autumn mulching protects soil over winter and feeds it gradually. Mulch can be topped up whenever soil is bare or looking tired.

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A generous layer works best.

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A layer around 5–7cm deep is usually enough to be effective. Keep mulch clear of plant stems to avoid rot.

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Yes — composting is simple and useful.

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Garden and kitchen waste can be turned into compost.

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By layering green and brown materials and letting nature do the work.

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Compost is made by combining “green” materials (such as vegetable peelings, grass clippings and coffee grounds) with “brown” materials (such as cardboard, paper, dry leaves and straw). Keeping a balance between the two helps compost break down effectively. Turning the compost occasionally and keeping it slightly moist — like a wrung-out sponge — encourages healthy decomposition.

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Avoid cooked food, meat and dairy and pet waste.

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These attract pests and slow composting.

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You can buy one or make your own.

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Compost can be made in a bought compost bin, a homemade bin made from wooden pallets, or a simple open heap in a quiet corner of the garden. The best option is one that suits your space and feels easy to manage — composting doesn’t need to be complicated to work well.

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Many plants thrive in partial or full shade.

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Plants such as brunnera, ferns, hellebores, pachysandra and liriope are well suited to shady gardens. Take a look at our Shady Corner Plant Collection. 

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Many plants grow well in clay soil.

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Clay soil holds nutrients and moisture well. Plants such as asters, roses, geraniums and dogwoods often cope well.

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Drought-tolerant plants need less frequent watering.

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Plants like lavender, salvias, sedum and ornamental grasses cope well with dry conditions once established.

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Many plants grow well in lower light.

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Ferns, hostas, epimedium and ivy are good choices for north-facing gardens.

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Choose plants that don’t outgrow the space.

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Compact shrubs, grasses and perennials help keep small gardens balanced and manageable.

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Flowering plants provide food for pollinators.

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Plants such as salvias, echinacea, verbena and buddleja attract bees and butterflies. Take a look at our Pollinator Magnet Plant Collection – full to the brim with plants that welcome pollinators with open arms.

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Yes — planting the right plants makes a big difference.

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A mix of flowering plants, shrubs and grasses provides food and shelter for wildlife.

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Some trees are suitable for containers.

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Amelanchier, olive trees, bay and small Japanese maples (Acers) work well in large pots. More ideas on suitable trees for smaller spaces can be found here.

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Evergreen climbers provide year-round cover.

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Plants like ivy, star jasmine and evergreen honeysuckle are popular choices.

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They give structure and year-round presence.

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Small shrubs help anchor a garden and provide shape when perennials die back. They make planting feel more intentional and reduce the need to rely entirely on seasonal colour.

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Compact, evergreen or neatly shaped shrubs.

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Good examples include phillyrea, hebe, osmanthus, pittosporum and compact box alternatives such as ilex. These shrubs provide structure without overwhelming the space and suit both borders and containers.

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Plants that enjoy similar conditions work best.

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Ferns, hostas, brunnera and spring bulbs pair well with hydrangeas.

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Many plants provide colour late in the season.

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Late-flowering salvias, sedum, rudbeckia and ornamental grasses add autumn interest. More inspiration and ideas for autumn colour can be found on this useful blog post.

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They provide quick colour and fill gaps fast.

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Bedding plants and annuals grow, flower and finish within one season. They’re useful for adding instant impact, filling bare spaces and refreshing pots or borders without long-term commitment. They’re especially helpful while permanent planting establishes.

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There are lots of easy, reliable options.

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Popular choices include viola, pansy, bacopa, lobelia, cosmos and calendula. These plants are widely available, flower for long periods and work well in both pots and borders. More ideas for bedding plants that match our design themes are on this helpful blog post.

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A garden style is an overall look and feel created by plant choice, colour and structure.

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Garden styles help guide decisions about planting and layout. They are not strict rules, but a helpful way to create a garden that feels cohesive and intentional.

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Choose a style that suits how you want your garden to feel and how much time you want to spend on it.

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Think about whether you prefer a formal or relaxed look, bold or soft colours, and how hands-on you want to be. The best theme fits your lifestyle as well as your taste. Take a look at ours for more inspiration and guidance.

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No — but even a loose theme can make decisions easier.

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Many gardens mix ideas from different styles. A theme simply provides a starting point and helps reduce overwhelm.

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Yes — most gardens are a blend.

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Combining elements from different styles often creates the most natural and personal result.

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Yes — garden styles work just as well in pots and planters.

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Containers, raised beds and planters allow you to create the same look and feel even without planting into the ground. Here’s a great article on how to make the most of these types of spaces.

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Yes — some styles suit a more hands-off approach than others.

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Styles that repeat plants, such as Classic or Mediterranean gardens, are often lower maintenance. More abundant styles like Cottage or Jungle gardens may need more regular tidying.

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Yes — starting small is a great idea.

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You can explore a garden style in one border, a group of pots or a single area before committing to it across the whole garden. Try our themes’ Starter Collections for size.

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Plants that enjoy sun and drier conditions.

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Lavender, rosemary, salvias, gaura, grasses and silver-leaved plants are typical choices. Explore our Med theme for more inspiration. 

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Yes, there are many Med-style plants that are happy in shade.

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Phillyrea, some salvias, bay trees, omphalodes, carex testacea and other plants work well in shade and suit the Med style.

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No — it is often lower maintenance once established.

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Using drought-tolerant plants reduces watering and ongoing care, and the overall style is quite relaxed so doesn’t need to be too ‘perfect’ in look. Take a look at Freya’s Med garden for more inspiration. 

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A jungle garden is lush, leafy and full of impact.

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It focuses on bold foliage, layers of planting and a sense of abundance. Explore our Jungle theme for more inspiration. 

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Plants with large leaves or strong shapes.

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Ferns, hostas, fatsia, heuchera, salvias and hakonechloa help create a dense look. Take a look at Anna’s Jungle garden for more inspiration. 

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A classic garden is structured, balanced and timeless.

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This style often uses symmetry, clipped shapes and a limited colour palette. Explore our Classic theme for more inspiration. 

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Evergreens and plants with neat forms.

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Ilex, yew, pittosporum, hydrangeas and simple perennials work well.

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Yes — especially if planting is kept simple.

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Repeating plants and keeping a clear structure makes maintenance easier.

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A Nordic garden is naturalistic, calming and restrained.

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Inspired by northern landscapes of Scandinavia, it focuses on texture and seasonal change. Explore our Nordic theme for more inspiration. 

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Grasses and soft-coloured perennials.

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Ornamental grasses, achillea, tiarella, ferns and alliums fit well.

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Yes — structure is key.

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Seedheads, grasses and evergreen elements provide winter interest.

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A cottage garden is informal, colourful and full of life.

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It embraces abundance, mixed planting and a relaxed feel. Explore our Cottage theme for more inspiration. 

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Traditional, free-flowering plants.

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Roses, foxgloves, salvias, geraniums and nepeta are common choices.

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It can look relaxed rather than tidy.

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Regular deadheading and light pruning helps keep it looking its best.

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An adventure garden is playful, sensory and family-friendly.

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It encourages interaction and curiosity, especially for children. Discover our Adventure theme for more inspiration. 

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Bright, tactile and fast-growing plants.

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Sunflowers, herbs, flowering perennials and edible plants work well.

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No — it suits anyone who enjoys an interactive, colourful, sensorial garden.

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Adventure gardens are about enjoyment and engagement at any age.

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You only need rough measurements to get started.

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Use a tape measure or pace the space out to get an approximate size. Or use a ‘Measure’ app on your phone. A simple sketch showing lengths and widths is enough for planning.

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Break it into smaller sections rather than measuring everything at once.

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Measure key areas such as borders, lawns and paths separately. Focus on the areas you plan to work on first rather than the whole plot.

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Yes — Google Earth has a very effective measuring tool.

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Google Earth allows you to measure distances and areas using aerial images. It’s especially useful for larger gardens or plots and gives a good sense of scale.

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Plants need space to grow properly.

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Understanding garden size helps avoid overcrowding and makes choosing appropriate plants easier.

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A rough plan helps, but it doesn’t need to be formal.

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A basic idea of where plants will go can prevent mistakes, but plans can change as gardens evolve. Our designers are on hand to advise via our Dig Studio page.

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Zoning means dividing a garden into areas with different purposes.

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Zones might include seating, planting or play areas. Even small gardens benefit from subtle zoning.

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Use planting and layout rather than hard boundaries.

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Plant height, surface changes or furniture placement can suggest zones without fences or walls.

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Use fewer plant types and repeat them.

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Repeating plants and leaving space between groups helps create calm and balance.

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Start with a small colour palette.

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Choosing two or three main colours helps a garden feel cohesive and easier to manage.

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Simple combinations are often the most effective.

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Colours that sit close together on the colour wheel, such as blues and purples or pinks and whites, tend to feel calm and cohesive. Strong contrasts, like purple and yellow, can be very effective too when used in small amounts. Take a look at our introductory guide to Colour Theory for more help.

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Stick to one main colour with supporting neutrals.

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Using one main colour, supported by greens, whites or soft pastels, creates a reliable and easy-to-manage scheme. You can always add brighter colours later once the garden feels established.

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Foliage colour is just as important as flowers.

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Green, silver, purple and variegated leaves provide structure and interest even when plants aren’t in flower. Foliage helps tie different planting areas together and reduces reliance on blooms alone.

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Yes — but it helps to do it intentionally.

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Warm colours like reds, oranges and yellows feel energetic and draw the eye, while cool colours like blues and purples feel calmer and recede. Mixing them works best when one group dominates and the other is used as an accent.

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Groups are easier for the eye to read.

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Planting in groups creates impact and looks more natural than scattering individual plants.

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Planting the same plant in loose, repeated groups.

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Drifts help guide the eye through a garden and create a sense of movement.

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More than one — usually in odd numbers.

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Using three, five or more of the same plant often looks more balanced. Our Instant Beds always utilise plants in this way, to ensure a strong overall balance of plants, colours and textures.

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It depends on how quickly you want the space to fill.

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As a general guide, planting around 6 plants per square metre works well if you’re happy to wait a little longer for plants to grow and spread. If you’d like a fuller look more quickly, 8–10 plants per square metre gives greater immediate impact.

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Only if you’re happy to manage growth later.

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Planting more densely creates an instant, lush effect, but plants may need thinning or dividing as they mature. Spacing plants slightly further apart takes more patience but often means less work in the long term.

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You need to balance structural plants with those that add height, those that bring shape and those that bring ground coverage.

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An effective flower bed usually has structural shrubs to anchor the layout. Taller (often narrower) plants bring height towards the back of the bed. Perennials can bring shape and colour, and then you need plants offer good ground cover at the front of the bed.

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Yes — many plants grow very well in containers.

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Pots are ideal for patios, balconies and small gardens. Herbs, perennials, shrubs and even small trees can grow happily in containers with the right care.

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Containers are flexible and easy to manage.

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They allow you to move plants, control soil conditions and change your layout easily. Containers are also useful where garden soil is poor or space is limited.

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They can need more regular care.

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Pots dry out and lose nutrients faster than garden soil, so watering and feeding are usually

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Bigger is usually better.

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Larger pots hold more compost and moisture, helping plants grow evenly and reducing how often you need to water. Small pots dry out quickly and restrict root growth.

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Yes — different materials behave differently.

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Terracotta dries out quickly but looks natural, plastic holds moisture well, and stone or ceramic pots are heavier and more stable. Choose based on weight, appearance and watering needs.

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Yes — they’re often good value and very practical.

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Fibreglass pots are lightweight, durable and available in a wide range of finishes, including stone and concrete effects. They’re easier to move than heavy pots and often more affordable than they look.

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Yes — almost always.

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Drainage holes allow excess water to escape and help prevent roots from rotting. Pots without holes are best used as decorative outer containers.

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A good-quality general-purpose compost suits most plants.

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Most container plants grow well in general-purpose compost. Some plants, such as ericaceous shrubs or citrus, benefit from specialist composts.

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Yes — more than plants in the ground.

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Nutrients in compost are used up over time. Regular feeding helps container plants stay healthy and encourages flowering.

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Yes — good drainage is important in pots & planters.

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Add gravel or stones to your compost mix, or use hydroleca balls to prevent the pots becoming waterlogged.

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Check them regularly, especially in warm weather.

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Pots can dry out quickly in sun and wind. Water when the compost feels dry a few centimetres below the surface.

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Because pots hold less soil and are exposed to the elements.

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Smaller volumes of compost heat up and dry out faster than garden soil, particularly in sunny or windy spots.

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Many plants are well suited to container growing.

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Herbs, grasses, compact shrubs, perennials and small trees all work well in pots. Examples include lavender, salvias, heuchera, grasses, bay trees, olives and small acers. Take a look at our useful blog post on pots & plants for more ideas.

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Often, yes.

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Restricted root space can limit growth, which can be useful in small gardens. Plants may still need repotting as they mature. More help can be found with this useful blog post.

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Absolutely.

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You can use plant combinations to evoke certain styles and themes very effectively – think rosemary and stipa for the Med, roses and nepeta for the Cottage, fatsia and hakonechloa for the Jungle and so on. Check out our Instant Pot Collections and Planter Collections for ready-made combinations!

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Yes — pot choice plays a big role in the overall look.

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Terracotta suits Mediterranean and cottage gardens, metal and dark finishes suit classic styles, and stone, concrete or corten steel work well for Nordic or natural designs. More ideas & inspiration for smaller spaces can be found here.

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Yes — combining them often looks more finished.

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Using a mix of pots, troughs and planters adds variation and helps a space feel more considered. Repeating materials or colours keeps the look cohesive.

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Odd numbers feel more balanced.

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Grouping pots in threes creates a relaxed, natural look. Varying heights adds extra interest.

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Yes — they make use of vertical space.

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Hanging baskets are ideal for balconies, walls and small gardens where floor space is limited.

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Plants that trail or flower freely.

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Good choices include trailing petunias, lobelia, bacopa, ivy, ferns and herbs like trailing rosemary. Here’s a useful blog post for more ideas and inspiration. 

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Yes — they dry out very quickly.

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Because they’re exposed on all sides, hanging baskets often need watering daily in warm weather.

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Regular watering and feeding is key.

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Deadheading, feeding and topping up compost help baskets stay full and flower for longer.

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Yes — many people garden successfully without soil.

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Balconies and terraces work well with pots, planters and raised containers. Consider sun exposure, wind and weight limits. Take a look at this useful blog post for more ideas.

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Use heavier containers or add weight.

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Heavy pots, sheltered positioning and grouping containers together all help prevent wind damage.

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Sometimes.

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Choosing hardy plants, raising pots off the ground and avoiding waterlogged compost reduces winter damage.

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Yes — it supports learning, wellbeing and confidence.

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Gardening helps children develop patience, responsibility and curiosity. It encourages outdoor time and a connection with nature without needing to feel like a lesson.

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No — learning together is part of the fun.

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You don’t need to be an expert. Children often enjoy experimenting and observing, even when things don’t go perfectly.

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Children can get involved at almost any age.

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Young children can help with watering and digging, while older children may enjoy sowing seeds, harvesting or planning what to grow.

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Absolutely.

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Combining plants that are tactile, sensorial and colourful with others that are edible can create a fantastic space that suits all ages. Discover our Adventure theme for more ideas & inspiration. 

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Plants that grow quickly and cope with rough handling.

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Good examples include sunflowers, nasturtiums, marigolds, calendula and hardy herbs like mint or chives.

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Plants that change visibly and feel rewarding.

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Good choices include strawberries, peas, tomatoes, sweet peas, pumpkins, courgettes and herbs such as basil or parsley. Bedding plants and annuals (e.g. cosmos, marigolds, pansies) look pretty and are easy to plant.

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Plants that offer responsibility or ownership.

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Good options include chilli plants, tomatoes, salad leaves, potatoes, cut-and-come-again herbs, grasses or small shrubs in pots.

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Often, yes — especially at first.

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Edible plants help children see a clear connection between effort and reward. Herbs, peas, strawberries and tomatoes work especially well.

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Keep tasks small and flexible.

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Short, achievable jobs are more enjoyable than long sessions. Letting children choose what to grow helps build ownership.

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Not always — but a focus area helps.

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A small patch, raised bed or group of pots gives children space to experiment without worrying about the rest of the garden.

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Accept a little mess.

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Gardens used by families are living spaces. Choosing robust plants helps balance enjoyment with appearance.

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Often, yes.

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Children are more likely to try food they’ve helped grow. Herbs, peas and tomatoes are good starting points.

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No — many crops are easy to grow.

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Some vegetables and herbs are very forgiving and don’t need much space or experience. Starting small makes growing your own enjoyable rather than overwhelming.

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No — many crops grow well in pots.

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Herbs, salad leaves, tomatoes, chillies and strawberries all grow well in containers, making them suitable for patios, balconies and small gardens.

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Fast-growing, reliable crops.

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Good beginner crops include salad leaves, radishes, peas, tomatoes and herbs such as mint or chives.

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Yes — many edible plants thrive in pots.

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Using containers allows you to control compost and positioning. Larger pots hold moisture better and give roots more room to grow.

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Bigger pots give better results.

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Salad leaves and herbs manage in smaller containers, while tomatoes, courgettes and potatoes need larger pots.

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Hardy, fast-growing herbs.

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Mint, chives, parsley and rosemary are reliable and forgiving choices. Check out our Herbs Galore Collection for a ready-made combination of delicious, aromatic herbs.

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Crops that grow quickly or vertically.

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Salad leaves, peas, beans, tomatoes and strawberries suit small gardens and containers.

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It depends on the crop and the season.

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Many crops are planted in spring, while some, such as salad leaves and herbs, can be grown for much of the year.

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Different vegetables suit different times of year.

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Spring suits salad leaves and peas; summer supports tomatoes, courgettes and beans; autumn suits leafy greens; garlic and onions are planted in autumn for the following year.

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Warm-loving crops grow best with protection.

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Tomatoes, chillies, peppers, cucumbers and aubergines benefit from greenhouses, polytunnels or sunny windowsills.

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They need regular care, especially in pots.

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Vegetables grow quickly and use nutrients fast, so consistent watering and occasional feeding helps productivity.

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You can grow vegetables in very little space.

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A few containers or one raised bed is often more successful than trying to grow lots at once.

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No — basic tools are enough.

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A trowel, watering can and containers are usually all that’s needed to get started.

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Some crops give results in weeks.

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Radishes, salad leaves, spinach and some herbs grow quickly and are good confidence builders.

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Some, but results vary.

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Spring onions, lettuce and herbs may regrow, but this is best treated as an experiment rather than a reliable harvest.

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Growing conditions may be limiting yields.

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Lack of sun, inconsistent watering or low nutrients can affect productivity.

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Most prefer sun, but some cope with shade.

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Leafy greens and herbs tolerate partial shade, while fruiting crops need more sun.

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Gardens can provide vital habitats for wildlife.

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Even small gardens and balconies can offer food, shelter and resting places for birds, insects and other wildlife. Collectively, gardens play an important role in supporting biodiversity.

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No — every garden helps.

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Pots, planters and small patches of planting can all support wildlife. Nectar-rich flowers and simple shelter make a difference whatever the size of your space.

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By providing food, shelter and places to hide.

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Wildlife benefits from a mix of planting, shelter and undisturbed areas. Leaving some plants standing, adding water, and avoiding over-tidying all help make gardens feel safer for insects and animals. More ideas and inspiration can be found on this blog post.

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They can help, but they’re not essential.

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Bug houses and insect hotels can provide shelter for some insects, especially solitary bees. Natural alternatives such as hollow plant stems, log piles and leaf litter can be just as effective and require less effort.

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Yes — these provide valuable shelter.

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Leaf piles, log stacks and twiggy corners offer places for insects, amphibians and small animals to hide and overwinter. Keeping these areas undisturbed supports wildlife with very little work.

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Yes — mess is often beneficial.

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Seedheads, fallen leaves and dead stems provide food and protection for insects and birds. A garden doesn’t need to be wild everywhere — leaving just one area less managed can make a big difference.

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Pollinators help plants produce flowers, fruit and seeds.

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Bees, butterflies, hoverflies and other insects move pollen between plants, allowing plants to reproduce.

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Plants rich in nectar and pollen.

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Lavender, salvias, echinacea, rudbeckia, alliums and herbs such as thyme and oregano are all good choices. Check out our Pollinator Magnet Plant Collection that’s full to the brim with pollinator-friendly plants.

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By providing food, water and shelter.

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Birds benefit from reliable food sources, clean water and places to shelter. Even small gardens and balconies can support birds. Here’s a useful introduction to birds in your garden.

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A mix of seeds and fats suits most birds.

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Sunflower hearts, mixed seeds, peanuts and fat balls attract a wide range of garden birds. Choose good-quality food without fillers.

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Yes — especially in colder months.

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Fat balls provide energy when food is scarce. Removing plastic mesh helps prevent birds becoming trapped.

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Yes — water is just as important as food.

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Birds use water for drinking and bathing. A shallow bird bath topped up regularly is very helpful.

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A way of gardening that avoids disturbing the soil.

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Organic matter is added on top of the soil and worked in naturally by worms and soil life.

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It protects soil life.

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Avoiding digging helps maintain insects, worms and microorganisms that support ecosystems.

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Yes — it’s easy to adopt gradually.

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Adding compost or mulch on top of beds is a simple way to start.